How to Make a House in the Ozarks

It’s 3:30 am California time (5:30 here) and I’m up with Keith’s snoring. The CPAP battery died at midnight. The house is completely dark with the lack of electronics and Keeley just left to take Nyame to catch his 6am bus to school, for the hour ride down a bumpy dirt road. He’s the only boy out of the four that actually requests to go to school. Josiah, Zekaraiah, and Shanti are all home schooled.

Jared and Keeley have made a beautiful home here in the Ozark Forest. It’s truly a labor of love. They have finished the upstairs bedrooms with insulation, drywall and paint. The rooms are big and comfortable. Wide, homemade, wooden ladders lead to raised loft beds. Most of the loft beds have a window which overlooks the forest and a spectacular view of the sunset.

The downstairs is fully functional, homey and is still being worked on. The walls are exposed wood and beams. Keeley has artfully draped beautiful tapestries and artwork from friends over the walls along with lush houseplants. A huge wood burning stove graces the corner of the family room and is efficient at keeping the house quite warm in the winter.

The kitchen has a tiny refrigerator the that runs on propane as does the stove and oven. Cast iron pans hang on hooks on the walls and the window at the sink overlooks the forest outside. Water must be boiled in a huge canning pot to wash the dishes and it drains out into the yard. The chickens can be found around the drain pipe outside drinking the dish water. Tacked up, festive fall fabrics, covers the open cabinet fronts.

They do have a bathroom here, right next to the room we are using. It’s sectioned off with support beams and tapestries. A sink and beautiful claw foot tub have drains that lead out beyond the house. Large containers full of grey water collected off the roof with a system of pipes and 1000 gallon tanks, is available for washing hands, dishes, etc. The drinking water is from a fresh mountain spring when it’s available, but since the drought they have been buying it in town. The toilet in the bathroom is one of those toilet seats on a stand the physically impaired might normally use to raise the height of a toilet but in this case it’s been placed over a large utility bucket. This is for peeing only. The outhouse is for any serious business.

The outhouse is just as you might imagine seeing in an old western. It’s a small wooden structure, with a platform that has a toilet seat cover placed over a hole, kind of like a port o potty made out of wood. A curtain covers the entrance.

I needed to use the outhouse in the dark so I grabbed my iPad to use as a flashlight and braved out into the thick black night, looking for the path. There is so much sound out here, the crashing of acorns through the leaves and branches to the ground, bats fluttering around the treetops, the constant, premature crow of the rooster, a dog barking off in the distance, the occasional owl hooting and of course the loud crickets and insects Chirping, buzzing, clacking, and humming.

Staying here has been amazing. Keeley and Jared and the boys have been gracious and warm hosts and it brings a whole new level of appreciation for how they live, actually staying here with them. I don’t know two people who work harder to have the life they’ve always wanted. I can’t wait to come back next year to see all their progress on the house.

Having said all that, I stink. I look forward to a long, hot shower at Doris’ house later today. We plan on heading back to Fayetteville after breakfast. Then on to find and explore the Fayetteville Library, which I hear is amazing.

Here is a picture of the view from their front door, a path leads to her organic garden, enclosed to keep out the chickens and critters.

Arriving in the Ozarks

We met up with Keith’s sister an her family at a tiny town called Kingston, AR. We found them easily in the towns square, which is literally square in the middle of town about 12 feet by 12 feet. There were a couple stores in town, all of which were closed.

We followed Keeley and Jared’s car down a long dirt road, about 14 miles of dirt roads which got progressively more difficult to travel. Very rocky, dusty and full of bumps and dives. We finally arrived at the home the Keeley and Jared built themselves, fully off the grid and self sustaining. It was getting dark and the boys and Miles ran off into the inky black announcing they were going to build a fire. We came into the unfinished house for a tour and Keeley poured me some delicious, homemade blackberry wine. Keith was handed a hoppy home brew.

The kids ran wild outside, screaming and running in circles around the fire, playing karate and poking sticks in the flames. Jared had slow cooked and shredded some bear from an intruder he had to kill earlier. The bear had been more and more bold and threatened his family while stealing their chickens. Keeley put together a fresh salad with some garden lettuce and veggies. We ate BBQ bear sandwiches by lantern and candle light. We talked about kids, homeschooling and how it has been for them, building a life here from nothing.

Miles needed to use the facilities so we slipped our shoes on, grabbed a lantern and headed out down a path behind the house to find the outhouse for the first time. The roll of toilet paper was missing so I left Miles in the darkness to find some toilet paper in the house. He is one brave little boy and did fine sitting out there, listening to the hum and buzz of the bugs, the wind through the trees and the sudden thump of the occasional acorn plummeting down though the trees.

Nyame, their oldest child of four boys gave up his room so we could take over the bunk beds and all stay in the same room. Miles ended up sleeping with Josiah in his loft bed instead of with us.

In fact, we’ve barely seen Miles since we’ve arrived here in the Ozarks. After breakfast this morning the boys all took off to the forest tree houses, and and forts and played hard out there for hours, only coming in briefly to eat lunch.

Jared led us all on a hike today beyond the house. There was barely a path cut in the thick trees. With every step large insects flew away from your shoes. We saw a million grasshoppers, funnel spiders, garden spiders, butterflies, beetles of various colors and sizes, giant wasps, bees and other mysterious flying creatures, a walking stick, a praying mantis, tree frogs, lizards, a yellow bellied marment, and countless gnats and flies.

We brought the two big, loping, friendly dogs with us to help us feel safe from the stories of wild boars and bears. We did not see either on our short hike. Eventually the path disappeared and we cut our own, moving branches out of the way, crunching on the soft layer of leaves on the forest floor. The canopy of sound sang to us as we made our way down into a low valley toward the dry river bed. When it’s been raining there is a creek that runs down to a rushing waterfall. We made it to the dry creek, and carefully followed it to the cliffs. Miles was being brazen and careless and we had to pull him back from the ledge. The ground was slick with moss and leaves and I was terrified the whole time that someone would slip and fall. The older boys were excited to show us a natural cave they found. Josiah said he’d spent the night in the cave and showed me his firewood and stash of water bottles. Miles was breaking down at this point since he had refused to stop playing earlier to eat breakfast, so we had to hurry back and get some food into him.

Later in the morning I unrolled the yoga mat in the west garden and did some sun salutations and good hip openers in preparation for the upcoming travel. Gnats and bees flying around my face reminding me to practice the art of non-distraction.

That afternoon I made some time out in the garden to do a chalk pastel of one of the Buff Orringtons, a beautiful and docile hen. After which I drew some colored pencil drawings of the flowers out there. This brought a little crowd of curious children with their own art supplies and we had an impromptu art class in the dirt among the beans, vines and gourds. Each child choosing a topic that interested them and requesting help when desired.

We had a big dinner outside with samplings of home made blueberry and black cherry wine, Alfredo pasta with chicken, asparagus, and a huge salad. Keeley and brought home some fresh sourdough and garlic and rosemary bread from her favorite bakery. The “neighbor” and her two children dropped in to join us and we had a beautiful dinner, lit by the stars and the blazing fire pit.

Keith’s CPAP battery hook up only lasted four hours last night so we charged it on the car today for about an hour. I’m hoping to get some sleep tonight. Miles will sleep hard and heavy after a long day of playing outside in the Ozark forest. Ivy’s already sleeping in the sling.

War Eagle Cavern and Turpentine Creek

We took our time this morning and slept in. I felt renewed after a good night sleep in a comfortable bed. We spent breakfast at a nearby pancake house reviewing our options for the day. We decided to try War Eagle Caverns because it was on Beaver Lake and we wanted to check out at least one lake while we were here.

About a half hour drive out of Eureka Springs we came upon what looked like a couple of houses at the end of a long, gravel driveway. As we approached the entrance of the gift shop, an old man stopped us and said with a thick southern accent, “I hate to tell ya but there’r no backpacks and no baby carriers allowed.” Keith and I looked at each other briefly and I said, “May I ask why?” He hooted with pleasure showing off his missing front teeth, “Aw I’s jus messin’ with ya. I ain’t got nothin’ better to do.”.

We entered into the surprisingly professional gift shop and took in all the gem stones, rubber band guns, and dream catchers among the confederate flag memorabilia. The man at the counter was also our tour guide and we bought our tickets to the cavern.

The tour guide spoke loud even though it was just us four and another couple, calling us “folks” and walking backward, taking us down into the woods, toward the lake. The cavern was tucked at the end of the gravel path. It’s natural entrance emitted cool 58 degree air.

The cavern was used by everything from Native Americans as shelter to moonshine distillers as cover. The owners of the land had put in some steps, lights and handrails, at the entrance to make it more tourist friendly, but after that, it was pretty much left natural.

The ceiling and floors were covered with stalagmites, stalagtites and underground streams. As we made our way deeper into the cave we had to watch our heads so we wouldn’t run into tiny brown bats hanging from the ceiling. Once we were about as deep into the cave as we could go without crawling the guide turned out the lights, we were plunged into complete and total darkness with just the sound of trickling water to orient ourselves. He told us the story of the early cave explorers in the late 1880′s who would enter the cave with only a torch of fire and would follow the water deeper and deeper into the cave. If they left the water they would have over 10 paths to take and could easily get lost in the cave without finding a way out.

He flipped back on the lights and we made our way back out into the heat of the sun and down by the lake’s boat dock where we fed huge carp fish food just to watch them swarm.

We were meant to meet up with Doris at Turpentine Creek Big Cat Refuge. So we left after hitting up the gift store one more time and headed to Turpentine Creek to see some Tigers.

The refuge wasn’t too fancy. They had over 100 different big cats all of which were rescued from inappropriate ownership and saved from termination. The top level was kind of sad. Huge tigers, Lions and Bears in small cages with concrete floors. The lower levels had larger enclosures with foliage and trees. We went on the tour but it was too slow and full of information for the little ones so we ditched it for an intern who took us on a quicker version and led us back up to the top cages. We stayed for feeding time and were amazing at how voracious the Lions and Ligers were. (that’ the first time I had ever seen a Liger). The different cats personalities really came out when they were waiting for the wheelbarrow full of reeking meat to visit them.

One lion attacked his toys with fervor until it was his turn. When the meat was tossed through a small hole in his cage by a timid intern, he lunged at it, caught it in his mouth, dropped it between his paws and then looked proudly around making low chugging noises. He did that for about 3 minutes before he quieted down and enjoyed his hunk of flesh.

It was dinner time and we were starving, even after the disgusting display at the refuge, but we had a long drive to the Ozarks ahead of us so we snacked on salami, cheese and crackers on the road to Kingston to meet up with Keeley, Jared and the boys.
These pictures are of a bat on the cave ceiling, fish in Beaver Lake, hanging out at Turpentine Creek with the cages behind us, the little slide at Turpentine Creek, and having breakfast at the diner.

Eureka Springs, Arkansas

My excitement for exploring Eureka Springs, which is known as a funky artist colony and romantic getaway, was somewhat dimmed when I encountered the so called “brat ban” with every Bed and Breakfast that looked interesting. Many restaurants, shops and hotels here are unfriendly to children, or completely disallow them.

So when we arrived, I was hesitant to even get out of the car to peruse the shops and galleries. We ended up parking in a public lot next to the train station. Since the actual train rides weren’t running, we meandered through the old trains taking pictures and climbing up on some for a better look.

For our hotel, we settled on Best Western, Inn of the Ozarks. It is kid friendly, with a mini golf course, pool, and spa, billiard and ping pong tables. The rooms are nice and clean. I warned the guy at the front desk that we had kids and he gave us a “free upgrade” to a room with no neighbors.

For dinner we went to Bubba’s BBQ, we shared pork, chicken and ribs, with sides of Frito pie, (I had to try it) baked beans and coleslaw. We stopped at an ice cream shop on the way back to the hotel and now we’re lounging hard, bellies bulging.

The last 3 days of sleeping on an air mattress on the floor are catching up to me, not to mention that Ivy is getting two more teeth simultaneously and wakes constantly. This may be the longest trip I’ve ever taken, let alone with kids. Today, I’m tired.

Tomorrow we go to Turpentine Creek, big cat refuge, with Keith’s Mom, Sister and four nephews. Then we’ll be spending a couple nights in the Ozarks at his sister Keeley’s house. We will be far off the grid, with no chance of wi-fi so I’ll be taking notes to update when we’re back in Fayetteville. Until then…

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Botanic gardens, Farmers Market and Terra Studios,

We started out the day with a simple breakfast with hot coffee and then Keith, Nyame, Miles, Ivy and I headed out to the Botanical gardens of the Ozarks. The garden was lush, green and loud with bugs and creativity. The children’s area was my favorite. There were tiny doors, hidden loft/forts and tucked away ladders that led to sneaky look outs. One of my favorites was a narrow bridge with large bird foot indentations that pointed the way to a oversized, high-rise bird nest. The couch train with a ring-able bell, and a chicken coop with a flock of petite chickens were also fantastic.

Farther along was the butterfly enclosure. It was filled with butterflies, caterpillars and chrysalis. The butterflies were still warming their wings in the morning sun so were very stationary and easy to observe. We were given a card with the various species so we could identify them for Miles. He is intensely into butterflies right now. I think this was a special moment for him.

After touring the rest of the garden we went over to the next field and hit up the farmer’s market. They had a wide variety of colorful vegetables, along with a few other venders too. I was drawn to the eclectic collection at the yarn table. The woman behind the table was at her wheel, spinning silk. I was fondling all her alpaca when she brought out her secret stash of vibrantly colored, recycled wool. I literally gasped when I saw it and asked how much she wanted for it. She had been saving it for a special order but parted with a skein for a very reasonable price. It’s the most unique yarn I’ve ever splurged on and I can’t wait to finish my current project and get started on something new.

The Farmer’s Market made us all hungry so we headed back into town and had lunch at a great little Restaurant called, East Side Grill. Nyame, our 13 year old nephew was gentle and kind with Ivy and attentive and playful with Miles. We were happy to have him along with us.

Full of burgers, we headed out to Terra Studios, an Artist community at the edge of town. They were having a “Kids Art Day” and Keeley suggested we meet her and the boys there.

It was a truly magical place tucked into the trees, with whimsical sculpture everywhere. There were trash trolls on the trash cans, and bridge trolls guarding the bridge. Some of the show stoppers were; a huge water tower bug, a miniature Ozark cabin for the little ones, and an expansive pond with a fountain and fish. Actually there were fountains, mosaics and fish everywhere. Every door had a tiny, child sized door cut into the bottom! In addition to all that, there was the usual ballon artist, face painter and sugary snacks.

We especially enjoyed the large labyrinth, oversized checkers, chess games and murals. In one of the artist studios was a cave with natural light shining through a moon and stars, and other hidden gems too. You could literally spend all day here enjoying and discovering different aspects of the gardens and studios.

I was fascinated by the glass blowing demonstration and tempted by all the beautiful ceramics and pottery available. It’s a good thing we have limited space in our suitcases.

Exhausted from such a busy day, we surrendered Nyame to his family and retreated home to a simple dinner of salami, sharp cheddar, sliced apple and a fantastic Zinfandel. The house is quiet, out running a errand with Doris, and I’m just enjoying the stillness and absorbing the glow.

Tomorrow we start a new adventure, heading to Eureka Springs!

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Arkansas day 2&3

I don’t have a lot of time so I’m going to steal a trick from my sister.

Things I’ve learned about Arkansas.

1. The people are friendly
2. There are a lot of trees and green open spaces
3. There don’t appear to be any homeless people
4. People like to sit in lawn chairs at the edge of their open garages- alone or in pairs. There were two men sitting alone, on either side of the street in their garages, just kinda staring out. It felt awkward.
5. Kids play in the streets and Moms sit on the curbs in a kind of spontaneous kid block party
6. The stars are bright
7. The parks and streets are clean
8. The air is crisp
9. Keith is in heaven visiting with his Mom and Sister (and not working)
10. There are church’s, Sonics, and car washes, everywhere you look
11. The bugs are big, visible and loud, but so far- not annoying
12. People wave at you when they see you, even from their cars on the road

We didn’t do much yesterday; Target, wine shop, pizza, coffee shop, home…After a skateboard trip to the park and exploration of the wildlife preserve, we settled in for a home cooked meal. While Doris cooked and the kids got wild, I sipped a sweet tea cocktail, and listened to music.

Dinner was freshly breaded and baked chicken nuggets, parmesan egg noodles and corn, totally comforting and delicious. After Keith put the boys to bed, Keith’s sister Keeley joined us and we stayed up too late swapping stories drinking wine, and catching up after a long separation.

We haven’t really done anything on my list of things to do, (which is growing) but we have a lot of time and I’m sure the newness of us being here will wear off and we’ll be ready to get busy. As I type, Miles is joining Shanti’s Taekwondo class and Ivy is napping in the sling. Not sure what’s next, but I’m sure it’ll be fun!

Arkansas Day #1

We finally made it to Arkansas after a long and stressful, but uneventful day of travel. Miles did awesome all day, as I expected. He was great on the plane, in the airport and fell asleep immediately in the rental SUV, sleeping almost until we arrived. Ivy was a bit more challenging on the plane, but nursed and slept more than I expected, making for a pretty easy flight.

The landscape here is beautiful, even in Fayetteville. They have had their share of rain the past few months so things are lush and green, even in the beginning of Fall. The land is thick with trees. When Miles first awoke in the car on the way here, every time we passed trees he would holler, “Look! Forest!”. But quickly realize it’s all forest here, at least compared to San Diego.

Doris has turned her home into a Bed and Breakfast for us. She has provided us with the master bedroom, even emptying out some drawers and making room in her closet. Miles has his own room, complete with toys.

When we arrived last night Doris has made an amazing crockpot roast with carrots and potatoes. It was so good, and we ate and ate, even Ivy ate the carrots and potatoes. It was the first real meal we’d had all day, and with the food choices on the way here, seemingly all fast, drive thru choices, the meal was much appreciated.

Keith had one of Keeley’s home brews that she left here for him. The drinking water is literally from a stream in the Ozarks that Keeley provides for her Mom. You can taste the minerals. It’s wonderful. All the eggs are fresh from Keeley’s flock. It’s just like home! Well, at least the eggs will be.

After dinner we took a quick walk down the neatly manicured streets, lined with conservative brick houses. We discovered a gorgeous park just a block or two down the street with a walking trail. This morning we’d like to see where that walking trail leads.

Last night we went outside to get something from the car and I was dumbstruck by the stars! Even here in “town” (I say it in quote, because I haven’t really seen any town as I know it yet) the stars are so bright! Miles came out and we just stood there, in our pajamas, mouths hanging open and discussed whether we needed apps to tell us what stars were what, or if we just wanted to soak it all in. In the end we just soaked it in. I can’t wait to see the Ozark sky, if that’s the normal night sky.

It seems we’ll have beautiful weather here in which to explore Arkansas. Mid-70′s and sunny during the day and 40′s at night. This morning I sat by the bed keeping watch on sleeping Ivy, so she wouldn’t fall out of the bed. Now I’m enjoying Doris’ famous coffee. She remembered I drink decaf and had a little coffee pot of decaf just for me. I think it’s going to be a great day!